The menswear show in Paris closed for the next season and was replaced by a series of haute couture presentations. Despite chilly temperatures and debilitating transportation strikes, the fashion community went all out to see the world’s leading menswear designers’ new collections.
The season’s event, which wrapped up on Sunday, offered many firsts, including the unexpected debut of Usher’s bright hair and a highly anticipated collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Kidsuper’s American designer Colm Dillane. I got
From celebrity sightings to comedy shows and, of course, standout collections, read our thoughts on the Fall/Winter 2023 shows.
usher new neon
Usher with blood orange hair. credit: Pierre Su/Getty Images
The Grammy-winning artist lit up the front row with a new head of fiery orange hair. Sanders has been spotted again. Photographers wanted shots at his attendance, wearing the full opening look for last season’s runway.
Issey Miyake’s Geometry Class
On the Issey Miyake catwalk, a dance interlude showed the movement of the clothes. credit: Victor Vergilet/Gamma Marafo via Getty Images
Geometric shapes with an emphasis on triangles were the starting point and driving force for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection. Many iterations of how triangles and other angular elements are twisted and manipulated into complex silhouettes and patterns.
Of course, signature pleats abounded, from pleated trousers to sleeveless shirts and coat detailing to the large, loose folds that fell off the shoulders of nylon outerwear.
The show was punctuated by a dance performance that showcased how well the garments moved as the performers weaved in and around a light show featuring, you guessed it, more geometric shapes.
Jenna Ortega Channels Grace Jones in Saint Laurent
Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris. credit: Stefan Cardinale/Corbis/Getty
Netflix series Wednesday star Jenna Ortega stepped out in a black hooded backless gown for Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent first men’s show in Paris. Brand’s Spring 2023 Halter-style dresses from the summer collection are reminiscent of Grace Jones’ iconic signature look. Sitting in the front row, the actors were visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano playing that closed the show.
Rick Owens Orthopedic Boots
Rick Owens took chunky boots to the extreme in his menswear show. credit: Victor Vergilet/Gamma Marafo via Getty Images
Rick Owens knows statement shoes all too well. His dizzying kiss platform has become his cult item. This season, the American designer embraced the orthopedic appeal, giving his boot legs a much chunkier silhouette and featuring thick padding held together with buckled leather his straps. What’s the chicest way to recover from a broken leg?
Rosalia rocked Louis Vuitton
Rosalia stole the show on the Louis Vuitton runway. credit: Stefan Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images
Spanish pop star Rosalia shook the roof of the Louvre with her inspiring performance at the Louis Vuitton fashion show. At the show, first guest her creative director, she unveiled a new collection with KidSuper’s Colm Dillane. The artist kicked off the show wearing an all-white oversized ensemble, walked down the runway with a torch flashing the French brand’s iconic monogram, climbed into a yellow car, and performed a rendition of her hit “Candy.” It was started.
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection mixes elegant tailoring, utility wear, sports-inspired separates and patchwork coats.
Rave culture growing up in Dries Van Noten
The Dries Van Noten show featured drum performances by the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan. credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Music has always been important to Dries Van Noten. Avid fans will remember his Fall/Winter 2011 show soundtracked by a specially mixed David Bowie master. This season, the Belgian designer explored his ’90s rave culture with a more grown-up sensibility. Guests headed to the multi-story car park for the show, where experimental musicians played his beats on mellow techno, and beer was served from steel carts. At the top, Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan played what Shaw Note called a “sophisticated rave” on drums and synths. The hypnotic soundtrack is oversized with abstract patterns from his coats, his puffers his jackets, his roomy 90s cargo his sets the tone for a new collection featuring outerwear ranging from pants to
Junya Watanabe announces collaboration with Palace
Junya Wantanabe is collaborating with the London-based skatewear brand “Palace”. credit: Estrop/Getty Images
Known for his extensive list of fashion collaborations, Junya Watanabe has decided to honor the many brands he has worked with over the years, including New Balance, Oakley, The North Face and Timberland, with a predominantly monochromatic collection. Also on the runway, his unmistakable Tri-Ferg logo for his London-based skatewear brand, Palace, appeared on his jacket with a black part puffer and his part hoodie. Another first.
kenzo swinging sixties
Nigo’s third collection for Kenzo was inspired by the Beatles and scored by covers of the band’s most famous songs. credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma Rafo/Gamma Rafo/Getty Images
Kenzo’s Artistic Director Nigo has long been an Anglophile, and his love of the Beatles goes back to at least 1999. Abby of Relax Magazine when he starred in a road-themed cover shoot. In show notes for the brand’s third collection, the Japanese designer compares the clothes to the famous “White Album”, an eclectic mix of cultural and stylistic references drawn from British, American and, of course, Japanese. The show, staged in a concert hall in Paris, featured the exuberance of “Can’t Buy Me Love” and “I Want to Hold Your Hand” by the Japanese female quartet of 1966. A full performance was presented. The new Fab His Four had the entire concert hall singing and cheering while the model walked around with his two violins, cello and piano.
KidSuper finds the funny bones of fashion
KidSuper’s fashion comedy show featured a cast of comedians in new collections. credit: I Aldama
Outside the Casino de Paris, editors, guests and fashion insiders were packed like sardines to attend KidSuper’s “Funny Business” fashion comedy show hosted by supermodel Tyra Banks. Inspired by Netflix’s comedy special, an impressive line-up of comedians including Jeff Roth, Emmy-nominated actress Yvonne Orgi, and French comedian Her Farry have brought brand founder Colm Dillane to life in the new collection. wrapped and burned. The theme was tailoring with a twist, from suits embroidered with the tailor’s chalk her marks to painterly peacoats painted with her watercolor brush strokes.
Talking about his unconventional approach to runway shows, Dillane said backstage on CNN Style that he wanted “something that stays alive and lasts more than 15 minutes.”
“I always thought I was wasting my money on something very ephemeral, so I’m going to create a concept with legs. at the place?”
Sakai and Carhartt work double time
For Sacai’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Japanese designer Chitose Abe collaborates with workwear brand Carhartt. credit: Victor Vergilet/Gammarafo/Getty Images
Japanese designer Chitose Abe has partnered with workwear brand Carhartt WIP for her Fall/Winter 2023 collection. It was a fun exploration of Carhartt’s quintessentially straight-edged style, infused with Abe’s romantic and unique perspective: Pockets doubled his, proportions distorted, and Abe designed the brand’s signature product. overturned. From inside-out hoodies with contrasting quilted padding and shearling panels to his Carhartt’s iconic Michigan coats reimagined as soft knit his jackets with gold buttons.